Attracted by the stunning scenery of north Cornwall, Catherine Smith stays in a traditional farm house with views along the coast.
Bedroom at West Wing
We arrive at West Wing on a misty Saturday afternoon to a welcoming cream tea of freshly baked scones, strawberry jam and Cornish clotted cream. Our accommodation is part of a traditional farmhouse with walls half a metre thick and a stable door that opens out onto an enclosed garden. For a one- bedroom property the rooms are surprisingly spacious. The downstairs bathroom features a large bath with overhead shower and the upstairs bedroom has a sloping floor and is flanked by a traditional stone fireplace. Set on an organic working farm in the village of Morwenstow, the West Wing’s location makes it the ideal base from which to explore both Cornwall and Devon, but there is also plenty to explore within walking distance and we spend our first evening doing just that. We are just a stone’s throw from Morwenstow Church, parts of which date back to Norman times. Within the churchyard standsa replica figurehead of the Caledonia of Arbroath, which was shipwrecked here in September 1842 (the original now resides inside the church). This figurehead marks the burial site of numerous shipwreck victims, a stark reminder of how treacherous this stretch of coast can be. The church has a rich history and is associated with the somewhat eccentric Reverand Hawker and a short cliff top walk will take you to Hawker’s Hut (the smallest building cared for by the National Trust). Constructed in 1843 from driftwood retrieved from shipwrecks, the reverend apparently spent many happy hours here writing poetry and smoking opium. The walk takes you alongside cliff edges and through livestock so dogs should be kept on leads.
Lanhydrock
The following day the sea mist has lifted and we can now appreciate the view of the coast from the garden. Our first port of call is Tintagel Castle. Situated 27 miles away on the dramatic clifftops of north Cornwall, the castle is most famed for its association with the legendary King Arthur and indeed a stronghold has been present on the site from at least the 5th or 7th century. It’s roughly a 15-minute downhill walk from the ticket kiosk to the mainland courtyard before continuing your journey across the spectacular award-winning footbridge to the castle remains on the headland. Walking among swooping sea birds, along the rugged clifftop above the crashing waves of the Atlantic, it’s easy to imagine how the site became the stuff of legends. Dogs can enjoy unrestricted access to the site, but due to cliff edges and nesting birds must be kept on- lead. If you cannot face the trek back up the hill to the village, a dog friendly Landrover service operates during peak times.
Tintagel
Our second day sees us at the picturesque fishing port of Boscastle. Situated between Tintagel and Bude, this delightful natural harbour retains much of its original charm. With its brightly daubed fishing boats and piles of well-used lobster pots you would be forgiven for thinking you had stepped back in time. There are some dramatic costal paths to explore but we opt to soak up the atmosphere before heading to nearby St Nectars Glen, home to a magnificent 60ft waterfall. This place of pilgrimage is named after the 6th century Saint Nectan, who according to legend resided in a hermitage above the waterfall and would ring a bell in stormy weather as a warning to ships. It’s not surprising that this place of outstanding beauty has been given special status by many and you will see hundreds of coins pressed into felled logs (wishing trees). The nearest car park is on the main road in Trethevy. From here you cross the road and follow the signs down a quiet country lane until you reach the shady woodland path that winds along the banks of the river Trevillet. The walk involves negotiating uneven paths and steps so may not be suitable for everyone. We head back to base and have a well-earned late lunch. The award-winning Rectory Farm Tea Rooms make up the other half of the building housing our accommodation. Dogs are welcome in the seating area in the pretty cottage garden. And we enjoy a hearty ploughman’s lunch and freshly baked quiche. The tea room opens daily in season from11am to 4pm. As such visitors to the tea room can be heard in the hallway area of the property during opening times. It wasn’t a problem for us but you may want to take it into consideration if you have a noise sensitive dog. The owners also have three of their own friendly dogs, so again the West Wing may not be suitable for you if you have a dog that worries about other dogs. On day three we opted for a day at the beach at nearby Sandymouth Bay which is dog friendly year round. As its low tide we are able to spend several hours on the sandy beach exploring the many rock pools before enjoying a latte at the Sandymouth Beach Cafe where dogs are welcomed in the outdoor seating area. From here we head to Bude and take a walk along the remarkable Bude canal that ends at the harbour. Some parts of the beach are off limits to dogs so be sure to check first.
Ru on the beach
Four days in and we experience our only rainy day. Undeterred we wrap up and visit the traditional fishing village of Port Isaac. We dodged the Doc Martin tours and spent some time exploring the dog friendly beach, narrow alleys and pretty whitewashed fishermans’ cottages There are several dog friendly places in which to dine at Port Isaac but we opt for fish and chips on the way home, eaten on the seafront at Bude. On our penultimate day we visit Lanhydrock, a stunning Victorian property in the care of the National Trust. With a three pawprint rating dogs are welcome in the Park Cafe and around the wooded estate. We pick up a map from the visitor reception for the Deer Wall Walk, a 4.3-mile trail which follows part of the river Fowey, where, if you are lucky, you might catch the blue flash of a kingfisher. Afterwards we enjoy a well-earned cream tea in the courtyard.
Port Isaac
The last day we return to Sandymouth but this time we take the coastal path to Northcott Mouth just over one mile away, a bracing walk that affords stunning views where you can see the Isle of Lundy on a clear day. Due to steep cliff edges and livestock dogs should be kept on leads but the beach itself is dog friendly year round. Best visited at low tide, Northcott offers a sandy beach and numerous rock pools, which are a haven for marine life. After a couple of hours exploring, we head back along the clifftop and enjoy a bowl of cheesy chips at Sandymouth Beach Cafe and Rufus appreciates a doggy ice cream. Of course, It would be remiss to leave without visiting the local pub, so we spend our last evening dining at the 13th-century Bush Inn, which is dog friendly and offers accommodation. Inside the traditional wooden beams, well-worn flagstone floor and impressive stone fireplace ooze old school charm. Once a popular haunt for smugglers, today the inn provides a welcoming establishment at which to eat and drink, with mains starting at £15. My partner opts for a traditional fish and chips while I enjoy melt in your mouth calamari, with a dressed salad and a glass of rose while we reflect on our trip.
FACT FILE
The West Wing
ADDRESS Rectory Farm, Crosstown, Morwenstow, Bude, Cornwall, EX23 9SR
CONTACT holidaycottages.co.uk
PRICE From £415 – £785 season dependant, dogs cost £20 per week, enclosed fenced garden
BEST EATS
Rectory Farm Tea Rooms, Morewenstow
Bush Inn, Morwenstow
Sandymouth Cafe, Sandymouth
USEFUL LINKS
Things to do:
Hawkers Hut
Bude
Sandymouth Bay
Northcott Bay
